(Arista e Patate Arrosto) If the grilled steak known as bistecca alla fiorentina is the king of meats in Tuscany, then pork loin is surely the queen. Tuscans call pork loin arista, a word that comes from the Greek aristos, meaning the best (Greek bishops visiting Florence in 1450 declared it so). The meat is usually studded with garlic and rosemary and cooked on a spit. It can also be roasted in the oven, as we do here; covering it for the first two hours is the secret to tender arista. In Italy, thin, overlapping slices of the pork are often served surrounded by roasted potatoes.