Cookies aren’t exactly a specialty of the Portuguese. Traditionally they tend to be crumbly and plain, more like dunking biscuits. One day at a dinner party, though, I had a sweet, thin cookie with a distinctive snap. I immediately made copious notes in my ever-present little black book, nibbling one cookie after the next to discern their various traits. The only thing is, I never asked the hostess for the recipe. I spent months trying to come up with a cookie that matched hers, and finally I think I’ve done her proud. But I ratcheted up the recipe, adding two iconic Portuguese flavors to the mix: olive and lemon. Serve these cookies alone, as a lovely accompaniment to tea, or, my favorite, as a crunchy bite alongside a scoop of vanilla ice cream or lemon sorbet.–David Leite, from