Lobster Gelees with Fresh Tarragon Oil |
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Prep Time: 105 Minutes Cook Time: 210 Minutes |
Ready In: 315 Minutes Servings: 8 |
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This dramatic first course won't soon be forgotten. Chunks of sweet lobster meat bound by a shimmering jelly of fennel-and-tarragon-scented lobster stock promises the most pristine lobster salad you'll ever taste. Ingredients:
8 quarts water |
4 (1 1/4-lb) live lobsters |
1 cup dry white wine |
3 carrots, chopped |
2 celery ribs, chopped |
1 fennel bulb (sometimes labeled anise ) with fronds, stalks, and bulb chopped and fronds reserved for fresh tarragon oil |
1 medium onion, finely chopped |
3 large garlic cloves, minced |
3 (6-inch) plus 8 (1-inch) sprigs fresh tarragon |
1 teaspoon salt |
1/4 teaspoon fennel seeds, slightly crushed |
1/4 teaspoon dried hot red-pepper flakes |
2 1/2 teaspoons unflavored gelatin (from two 1/4-oz envelopes) |
1 1/2 teaspoons tarragon white-wine vinegar |
1/3 cup fresh tarragon oil |
accompaniment: lobster claw toasts |
Directions:
1. Cook lobsters and make stock: Bring 6 quarts water to a boil in pot, then plunge 2 lobsters headfirst into water and cook, covered, 8 minutes from time they enter water. Transfer with tongs to a shallow baking pan to cool. Return water to a boil and cook remaining 2 lobsters in same manner.
2. When lobsters are cool enough to handle, remove meat from tail and claws and set aside. Cut tail shells and lobster bodies (not including claws) into 1-inch pieces with kitchen shears, then rinse well, discarding gills, eye sacs, tomalley, any roe, and claw shells. Transfer to a 6- to 8-quart heavy pot, then add wine, carrots, celery, fennel, onion, garlic, large tarragon sprigs, salt, fennel seeds, red-pepper flakes, and remaining 2 quarts water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, until liquid is reduced to about 6 cups, about 1 1/2 hours.
3. While stock reduces, scrape any coagulated white albumin from lobster meat with a knife and cut meat into 1/2-inch pieces, then chill, covered.
4. Make gelées: Pour stock through a dampened cheesecloth-lined large sieve into a large bowl, pressing on and then discarding solids. Transfer 2 3/4 cups stock to a bowl. (Cool remaining stock completely, uncovered, then freeze in an airtight container for another use.) Sprinkle gelatin evenly over 1/4 cup stock in a 1-quart saucepan, then let stand 1 minute to soften. Heat over moderately low heat, stirring, just until gelatin is dissolved, then stir in vinegar and remaining 2 1/2 cups stock.
5. Put molds in a baking pan. Add 2 teaspoons gelatin mixture to each mold and freeze until set, about 10 minutes. Put 1 small sprig of tarragon and a tip of claw meat in bottom of each mold, then divide lobster meat among molds. Fill with remaining gelatin mixture and chill, covered with plastic wrap, until set, at least 2 hours.
6. To unmold, dip 1 mold in a pan of hot water 3 to 5 seconds to loosen. Run a thin knife around edge of mold and invert gelée out onto a plate. Repeat with remaining molds. Drizzle plates with fresh tarragon oil .
7. Cooks' note: Gelées can be chilled in molds up to 2 days.
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