If one pasta dish exemplifies the complexity of pan sauce precision, it's cacio e pepe (literally, cheese and pepper). The minimalist recipe calls for only a few ingredients and doesn't even include garlic. But the techniques outlined here elevate the dish to something magnificent. The creamy twirl of noodles is like a stripped-down mac and cheese—only more elegant and easier to make. No wonder it's on the menus of America's most stylish Italian restaurants. It's a simple standard by which cooks are measured, yet no two chefs agree on how to do it right. We sorted through the variations and found it works best with a mix of Grana Padano (velvety) and Pecorino (sharp) cheeses, and freshly cracked black pepper (you should taste the heat).